Use the information below to help troubleshoot issues with a Briggs & Stratton air-cooled standby generator. This page provides common troubleshooting steps. If you are uncomfortable working with electricity or fuel, please contact a qualified service technician.

Common Troubleshooting Scenarios

Service scenarios may present themselves, including basic symptoms, potential causes, and ‘alarms’ on the GC-1030 Series Controller.

Choose from the following Quick Navigation Buttons to navigate to a specific service scenario:

Generator Does Not Start Generator Starts then Shuts Down Generator Runs Rough Generator Does Not Produce Voltage Generator Running, Does Not Transfer Power Generator Running, Does Not Transfer Power Back (After Utility Returns) Generator Starts and Runs for No Reason GC-1030 Series Controller Alarms & Event Log GC-1030 Series Controller Hardware Issues

Additional Resources

Briggs & Stratton Energy Solutions offers technical resources and guidance for other types of installation & maintenance scenarios.

For more in-depth electrical troubleshooting instructions, including important safety and warning information, navigate to the Technical Support Resources section and consult the Electrical Troubleshooting and Repair Manual (Air-Cooled Standby Generator with GC-1030 Series Controller) document.

Choose from the following Quick Navigation Buttons to navigate to these helpful resources:

Installation & Start-up Support Service Call & Maintenance Best Practices Technical Support Resources


Common Troubleshooting Scenarios

Generator Does Not Start

(need introduction)

Symptom: Engine Does Not Crank

(need scenario introduction - where engine does not crank)

NOTICE - Whenever "Test again" appears, install the 15 amp fuse (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location), if removed. From MANUAL mode (Engine Off-Ready), press START/SELECT on the controller to check if the engine cranks. If the test fails, remove the 15 amp fuse and proceed to the next step.

If a test passes, follow the linear steps to the appropriate section. If the engine begins to Crank, but does not Start, advance to Symptom: Engine Does Not Start.

 

Potential Cause: Weak/ Failed battery, battery charger, and/or battery connections issue

ALARM(S): Battery Under Voltage, Battery Over Voltage

  1. Press STOP/CONFIG on the controller.
  2. Remove the 15 amp fuse from the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location). Is the fuse blown (the U-shaped wire between prongs is broken or damaged)?
    • Yes – Install a new fuse using only an identical 15 amp ATO fuse. Test again.
    • No – Go to step 3.
  3. Inspect the battery for damage.
    • Check the battery posts for melting or damage caused by over-tightening.
    • Inspect the battery for discoloration, a raised top, or a warped or distorted case, which indicates that it has been frozen, overheated, or overcharged.
    • Inspect the battery case for leaks or cracks.
    • Do any of the above conditions exist?
      • Yes – Get a new battery. See the installation manual for the correct battery type and replacement size. Go to step 6.
      • No – Go to step 4.
  4. Inspect the battery for correct installation and maintenance.
    • Verify correct polarity. The positive battery cable (red) must be connected to the positive battery (+) post, and the negative battery cable (black) must be connected to the negative battery (-) post.
    • Clean the cable clamps and battery terminals using a wire brush or sandpaper to remove oxidation or corrosion.
    • Inspect battery screws, clamps, and cables for breakage and loose connections. Replace and tighten if necessary.
    • Inspect the battery fluid level of unsealed batteries. If the fluid level is low, fill with distilled water only.
    • Do any of the above conditions exist?
      • Yes – Correct conditions as necessary. Go to step 5.
      • No – Go to step 5.
  5. Disable the battery charger.
  6. Disconnect the battery (A, Figure 11), and check the battery state of charge. Set the Digital Multimeter (B) to read DC volts. Place the red meter test lead (C) on the positive battery (+) post (D), and the black meter test lead (E) on the negative battery (-) post (F). Is the voltage less than 9.6 VDC or lower, between 10-12 VDC, or 12 VDC or higher?
    • 9.6 VDC or lower - Obtain a new battery. See the installation manual for proper battery type and replacement size. Go to step 7.
    • 10-12 VDC - Fully charge the battery. Go to step 7.
    • 12 VDC or higher - Go to step 7.

    (insert Figure 11)

  7. Use an approved battery load tester to load test the battery. Does the battery pass the load test?
    • Yes – Proceed as follows:
      • If testing the original (used) battery, go to step 8.
      • If testing a new battery, go to Check Utility Voltage Input.
    • No – Obtain a new battery. See installation manual for proper battery type and replacement size. Repeat step 7.

    NOTICE - If you do not have an approved battery load tester, refer to the Battery Load Test section in the engine's repair manual (Part No. 80114787) for instructions on performing a battery load test without the battery load test tool.

  8. Enable the battery charger.
  9. Connect the battery and install the 15 amp fuse in the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for fuse location). Turn on the PMD. Back probe the socket terminals of Pin 1 (-) and Pin 2 (+) (A, Figure 12) on the controller to measure DC voltage. Is the voltage at approximately 13.5 VDC with the charger on or more than 9.6 VDC without the charger on?
    • Yes – Go to Check Starter Relay Signal.
    • No – Go to step 10.

    NOTICE - Meter reading in steps 9 and 10 verify that utility voltage is present.

    WARNING - Even if the terminals of Pin 1 (-) and Pin 2 (+) are back-probed as instructed, avoid touching both terminals simultaneously. Do not remove socket terminals and probe the pins directly, because touching both pins with the same probe will result in arcing between terminals. Any arcing can damage controller components and wires, and cause eye injuries if safety glasses are not worn.

    WARNING - Fuel and fuel vapors can be ignited, causing explosion, which could result in death or serious injury.

    (insert Figure 12)

  10. With the 2-pin connector plugged into the controller, measure DC voltage from Pin 2 (A, Figure 13) to the negative battery (-) post (B). Is the voltage at approximately 13.5 VDC with the charger on or more than 9.6 VDC without the charger on?
    • Yes – Go to step 12.
    • No – Go to step 11.

    (insert Figure 13)

  11. Inspect all wiring and connections on the controller. Look for wires that are damaged (nicked, kinked, cut, abraded, burnt, broken, etc.), loose, or disconnected. Do any of these conditions exist?
    • Yes – Repair or replace as necessary. Test again.
    • No – Return to step 9.
  12. Inspect the condition of all wires, cables, and connectors in the unit. Pay particular attention to ground posts and frame grounds. Look for wires that are damaged (nicked, kinked, cut, burnt, broken, etc.), loose, or disconnected. Do any of these conditions exist?
    • Yes – Replace or repair as necessary. Test again.
    • No – Go to Check Starter Relay Signal.

  1. Connect the battery and install the 15 amp fuse (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location). Turn on PMD. Set the Digital Multimeter (A, Figure 14) to read AC volts. Measure AC voltage at the utility connector (MAINS I/P Terminals 33 and 34) on the controller (B). Is approximately 240 VAC present?
    • Yes – Go to Check Trickle Charge at the Battery.
    • No – Go to step 2.

    (insert Figure 14)

  2. Measure AC voltage on the bottom side of the two transfer switch fuses (A, Figure 15). Is approximately 240 VAC present?
    • Yes – Repair or replace the wiring between the transfer switch and generator. Test again.
    • No – Go to step 3.

    (insert Figure 15)

  3. Measure AC voltage on the top side of the two transfer switch fuses (A, Figure 16). Is approximately 240 VAC present?
    • Yes – Remove the fuses and test for continuity (B). Replace the open fuse(s). Test again.

      NOTICE - Before replacing the fuses, turn off utility power and remove the fuses from the fuse holder and verify that no continuity to ground is present. If continuity to ground is present, check for wire shorts or a failed battery charger, warmer, or controller.

    • No – Repair or replace transfer switch wiring. Test again.

    (insert Figure 16)

NOTICE - If a new battery is installed during a utility outage, the charging circuit must be tested after restoration of utility power.

  1. Set the Digital Multimeter (A, Figure 1) to read AC volts. Back probe pins L1 and L2 on the battery charger (Wires 16 and 17) (B). Is approximately 240 VAC present?
    • Yes – Go to step 2.
    • No – Go to Check Utility Voltage Input.

    (insert Figure 17)

  2. Set the Digital Multimeter (B, Figure 18) to read DC volts. Connect the Digital Multimeter to the battery (A) by placing the red meter test lead (C) on the positive battery (+) post (D) and the black meter test lead (E) on the negative battery (-) post (F). Measure DC voltage across the battery terminals. Is voltage equal to or greater than 13.0 VDC?
    • Yes – Test again.
    • No – Go to step 3.

    (insert Figure 18)

  3. Set the Digital Multimeter to read AC volts. Back probe pin 6 (Wire 44B) (A) and pin 14 (Wire 11B) (B) on the relay board. Is approximately 240 VAC present?

    NOTICE - The relay board on 13 kW units does not have the 3-pin connector shown in the following images.

    • Yes – Go to step 4.
    • No – Repair or replace Wire 44B (pin 6) and/or 11B (pin 14) between the generator and the relay board.

    (insert Figure 19)

  4. Back probe pin 5 (Wire 16) and pin 13 (Wire 17) on the relay board. Is approximately 240 VAC present?
    • Yes –Go to Check Starter Relay Signal.
    • No – Repair or replace Wire 16 (pin 5) and/or Wire 17 (pin 13) between the battery charger and the relay board.

    (insert Figure 20)

Potential Cause: Starter Relay/ Starter Solenoid component or wiring issue

ALARM(S): Fail to Start

  1. Set the Digital Multimeter (A, Figure 21) to read DC volts. Remove Wire 56A from starter relay spade contact. Connect the positive (+) meter test lead (C) to Wire 56A (B), and connect the negative (-) meter test lead to ground (D).

    (insert Figure 21)

  2. Install a 15 amp fuse in the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  3. Turn on the PMD.
  4. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine.
  5. Measure DC voltage while the controller sends the crank signal (approximately 10 seconds ON and 10 seconds OFF for two minutes). Is the voltage equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Alternately check for the same DC voltage at the positive (+) (A, Figure 22) and negative (-) (A, Figure 23) posts of the starter relay while Wire 56A has voltage. Is VDC present on both sides of the starter relay?
      • Yes – Go to Check Starter Solenoid Connection.
      • No – Install a new starter relay. Test again.
    • No – Less than 9.6 VDC. Go to Check Battery Voltage Supply.
    • No - No voltage. Go to Check Controller Output.
    • Check the ground condition through the base of the solenoid.

      (insert Figures 22 and 23)

  1. Is the battery voltage at the positive post of the starter relay (A, Figure 24) equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Go to step 2.
    • No – Repair or replace the wiring and/or connections between the battery and starter relay. Test again.

    (insert Figure 24)

  2. Connect the positive (+) meter test lead to the battery cable connection (A, Figure 25) at the starter relay. Connect the negative (-) meter test lead to ground.

    (insert Figure 25)

  3. Press START/SELECT on the controller to crank the engine.
  4. Is DC voltage equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Check that the engine spins freely and is not locked up. If the engine spins freely, install a new starter. Test again.
    • No – Repair or replace the main battery wiring between the starter and starter relay. Test again and go to Check Controller Output.

  1. Is the battery voltage at the positive (+) post of the starter solenoid (A, Figure 26) equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Go to step 2.
    • No – Refer to the Starter Motor Solenoid Voltage Test section in the engine's repair manual (Part No. 80114787) for further testing. Repair or replace the wiring and/or connection

    (insert Figure 26)

  2. Is the battery voltage on Wire 2 (A, Figure 27) at the starter relay (Wire 97 on some models) equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Go to step 3.
    • No – Go to Check Battery Voltage Supply.

    (insert Figure 27)

  3. Disconnect the control wire 1 (Wire 98 on some models) (A, Figure 28) from the spade contact at the starter solenoid (B). Connect the positive (+) meter test lead (C) to the control wire (A), and connect the negative (-) meter test lead (D) to ground (E).

    (insert Figure 28)

  4. Install a 15 amp fuse at the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  5. Turn on the PMD.
  6. Press START/SELECT on the controller to crank the engine.
  7. Is DC voltage on the control wire at the starter solenoid equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Check that the engine spins freely and is not locked up. If the engine spins freely, install a new starter. Test again.
    • No – Repair or replace the wiring between the starter relay and the starter solenoid. Test again and go to Check Controller Output.

Potential Cause: Generator Controller or Relay Board does not output ≥9.6 VDC

ALARM(S): Fail to Start

At the Controller

  1. Connect the positive (+) meter test lead (A, Figure 29) to Terminal 4 (Dig OP B, Wire 56B) (B). Connect the negative (-) meter test lead (C) to Terminal 1 (Wire 0B) (D).

    (insert Figure 29)

  2. Turn on the PMD.
  3. Install a 15 amp fuse at the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  4. Press START/SELECT on the controller to crank the engine.
  5. Is DC voltage on Pin 1 and Pin 4 equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Go to step 6 to measure the voltage into and out of the relay board.
    • No – Less than 9.6 VDC. Less than 9.6 VDC. Go toCheck Battery Voltage Supply.
    • No -No voltage. Install a new controller. Test again.

    At the Relay Board

  6. Back probe Pin 9 (Wire 56B) (A, Figure 30) on the relay board with the red meter test lead (B) and connect the other meter test lead (C) to ground (D). Is the DC voltage equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?

    NOTICE - The relay board on 13 kW units does not have the 3-pin connector shown in the following images.

    • Yes – Go to step 7.
    • No – Repair or replace Wire 56B between the relay board (Pin 9) and the controller. Test again.

    (insert Figure 30)

  7. Back probe Pin 8 (Wire 56A) (A, Figure 31) on the relay board with the red meter test lead 9 (B) and connect the other meter test lead (C) to ground (D). Is the DC voltage equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Go to Symptom: Engine Does Not Start.
    • No – Repair or replace Wire 56A between the relay board (Pin 8) and the starter solenoid. Test again.

    (insert Figure 31)

Potential Cause: Emergency Stop button pressed, and/or wiring connection issue

ALARM(S): Emergency Stop

  1. Locate and reset the E-Stop switch
  2. Acknowledge/ Clear Alarm at the Controller
  3. Re-test

Confirm the green E-Stop jumper wire is installed on terminal block pins 6 and 7

Potential Cause: Generator Controller in MANUAL/ Engine Off mode

ALARM(S): N/A

(Pull from Preliminary Checks)

Symptom: Engine Does Not Start

(need scenario introduction - where Engine Cranks, but does not Start)

 

Potential Cause: Engine Oil Level is Incorrect/ Insufficient (Low or No Oil)

ALARM(S): N/A

  1. Check that the engine has been filled to the correct level with the recommended oil. Is the oil at the correct level?
    • Yes – Go to Change Engine Oil and Filter.
    • No – Slowly add oil until the correct oil level is reached. DO NOT OVERFILL.

  1. Use one wrench to hold the hex on the oil drain hose fitting (to prevent rotation), and use a second wrench to remove the drain plug.
  2. Drain the oil into a suitable container.
  3. Install the drain plug back into the oil drain hose fitting.
  4. Rotate the oil filter in a counter-clockwise direction to remove it from the oil filter adapter.
  5. Check that the old gasket is not stuck to the oil filter adapter and that the gasket surface is clean and dry.
  6. Install a film of clean engine oil to the gasket of a new oil filter.
  7. Install the oil filter by hand until the gasket contacts the oil filter adapter.
  8. Tighten the oil filter an additional 1/2-3/4 turn.
  9. Remove the fill cap and fill the engine with the correct quantity and type of oil.
    • Quantity (Dry Engine):
      • 12-13 kW (M38): Add 42-45 ounces (or 1.31-1.41 quarts).
      • 17-26 kW (M61): Add 78-80 ounces (or 2.44-2.5 quarts).
    • Type: – Use only API SJ/CF 5W-30 synthetic oil. Select the best viscosity for the outdoor temperature range expected. DO NOT use special additives.
  10. Install the fill cap.
  11. Install the 15 amp fuse in the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  12. Push and hold START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine.
  13. Let the engine run for one minute and check for leaks.
  14. Press OFF on the controller to stop the engine.
  15. Wait a minimum of five minutes for the engine to cool and to allow the oil to drain back to the oil pan.
  16. Check the engine oil level as follows:

    NOTICE - The most accurate oil level readings are obtained when the engine is cold.

    • Remove the dipstick and wipe it dry with a clean, lintfree cloth.
    • Slowly insert the dipstick into the dipstick tube.
    • Check that the dipstick is fully installed in the dipstick tube.
    • Wait a minimum of ten seconds and then slowly remove the dipstick.
    • Check that the oil level on the dipstick is at or near the top of the crosshatch pattern (A, Figure 83).

      NOTICE - Check the oil level on both sides of the dipstick.

    • The lower level of the two readings is the correct oil level measurement.

       

    • If necessary, remove the oil fill cap and slowly add oil. DO NOT OVERFILL.
    • Install the dipstick and oil fill cap.
  17. Push and hold START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine. Check for leaks while the engine runs.
  18. Let the engine run for a minimum of one minute.
  19. Push and hold STOP/CONFIG on the controller.
  20. Return to step 15. Repeat the steps if necessary until the engine oil level is correct.
  21. Remove the 15 amp fuse from the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).

NOTICE - Dispose of used oil and the oil filter at a proper waste disposal or recycling center.

(insert Figure 83)

Potential Cause: Fuel Pressure is Incorrect/ Insufficient (Low or No Fuel)

ALARM(S): Fail to Start

  1. Is sufficient fuel available in the fuel supply tank?

    NOTICE - Fuel is only present on units with a liquid propane (LP) supply tank.

    • Yes – Go to step 2.
    • No – Replenish the fuel supply.
  2. Are the main fuel supply valve and any in-line fuel shutoff valves open?
    • Yes – Go to Check Fuel Pressure.
    • No – Open the main fuel supply valve and any in-line fuel shutoff valves.

  1. Remove the roof and front panel.
  2. For 13 kW units only: press the fuel selector toggle switch (A, Figure 3) that is located on the top of the field connection box to the correct position -- LP or NG (B).

    (insert Figure 3)

  3. Locate the main jet (A, Figure 4) and idle jet (B) on the engine. The number of turns counter-clockwise of each jet from a fully-seated position (0 turns) indicates whether the unit is configured to run on NG or LP. The jet settings for NG and LP are as follows:
    12-13kW NG and LP Configurations
    Model Engine Frequency Fuel Type Main Jet Turns Idle Jet Turns
    12kW BSPP 38 v/s 60 Hz NG 1/2 2-1/2
    LP 0 1/4
    13kW BSPP 38 v/s 60 Hz NG 1-3/8 3/8
    LP 1/8 3/4

    (insert Figure 4)

  4. The engine of your generator system is factory-calibrated and set to operate on NG. To convert to either fuel, do the steps that follow:
    • Locate the controller.
    • Press STOP/CONFIG to navigate to Manual Mode.
    • Press and hold the STOP/CONFIG button to access the configuration menu.
    • Press START/SELECT to enter Write Mode to edit the items in the configuration menu.

      NOTICE - If you are changing the setup in the generator's controller from the factory setting of NG fuel to LP fuel you will need to enter the configuration menu by using the Dealer Password, which is available on the Power Portal.

    • Navigate to the “SELECT PROFILE” page, press START/SELECT 3 times to access the profile selection row for the generator, and press START/SELECT once you have set the correct profile. For example “13KW_LP” for operating a 13kW unit running on LP fuel.

      NOTICE - Selecting a profile that is not intended for the generator can cause the generator to run erratically and can result in damage.

    • To save the new fuel setting, press and hold the STOP/CONFIG button until “Saving Settings…” is displayed.
    • For 13 kW Units: DO NOT change the fuel regulator setting. Whether you are using NG or LP fuel this setting MUST be left at the factory setting of NG (A, Figure 5).

(insert Figure 5)

  1. Open the roof and remove the air inlet side end cap.
  2. Locate the fuel selector valve (A, Figure 7) on top of the fuel pressure regulator (B). To convert to either type of fuel, do the steps that follow:

    (insert Figure 7)

    • Set the fuel selector. For LP, rotate the lever on the fuel selector valve until LP is aligned with “OUT” on the fuel regulator. For NG, rotate the lever clockwise 90° so the handle position of the lever will be up and down and the “NG” letters will be on the left.
    • For 17, 20, and some 26 kW PowerProtect units, locate the fuel selector switch (A, Figure 8) and select either LP or NG. For 18, 22, and some 26 kW PowerProtect units, locate the fuel selector switch (A, Figure 9) and select either LP or NG.

      (insert Figure 8)

      (insert Figure 9)

    • Locate the controller.
    • Press STOP/CONFIG to navigate to Manual Mode.
    • Press and hold the STOP/CONFIG button to access the configuration menu.
    • Press START/SELECT to enter Write Mode to edit the items in the configuration menu.

      NOTICE - If you are changing the setup in the generator's controller from the factory setting of NG fuel to LP fuel you will need to enter the configuration menu by using the Dealer Password, which is available on the Power Portal.

    • To set up the generator’s controller for LP fuel, enter the configuration menu by using the dealer password, which is available on the Power Portal. Navigate to “select profile” and push “select” on the correct profile for the generator. For example, choose “20KW_LP” for operating a 20kW unit running on LP fuel.

      NOTICE - Selecting a profile that is not intended for the generator can cause the generator to run erratically and could result in damage.

    • To save the new fuel setting, push and hold the STOP/CONFIG button until “Saving Settings…” displays.

NOTICE - The generator inlet fuel pressure should be 11-14 inches WC (LP) or 3.5-7 inches WC (NG).

  1. Close the main fuel supply valve to stop the flow of fuel to the generator.
  2. Locate the installer-supplied fuel pressure test port closest to the generator (A, Figure 32).

    NOTICE - If a test port does not exist, see the appropriate installation manual for instructions on installing it. To proceed with troubleshooting in the absence of a test port, go to step 4 of Check Fuel Solenoid and Thermal Fuses to use the test port in the fuel pressure regulator (B, Figure 32). Although use of this port will indicate whether fuel is present, it will not indicate whether the incoming fuel has dropped in pressure.

  3. Obtain an analog manometer (C, Figure 32). Remove the test port plug and install the manometer.
  4. Open the main fuel supply valve to start the flow of fuel to the generator.
  5. Inspect the manometer gauge. Is the generator inlet fuel pressure 11-14 inches WC (LP) or 3.5-7 inches WC (NG).
    • Yes – Go to Check Fuel Solenoid and Thermal Fuses.
    • No – Repair or replace fuel delivery system. Test again.

NOTICE - No more than 0.5 inches WC drop should be seen between static and dynamic fuel pressure and the fuel reading should be stable.

(insert Figure 32)

  1. Locate the fuel solenoid. For 13 and 17-26 kW PowerProtect generator units, the fuel solenoid (A, Figure 33) is located inside the unit on the fuel regulator assembly (B).

    (insert Figure 33)

  2. Set the Digital Multimeter (A, Figure 34 and 35) to read DC volts.
    • For 12 kW and 17 or 20 kW Fortress II units, disconnect the 2-pin connector (B, Figure 34) from the fuel solenoid (C). Connect the positive (+) meter test lead (D) to the socket terminal of Wire 14C (E) and connect the negative (-) meter test lead (F) to ground (Wire 0D) (G).

      (insert Figure 34)

    • For 13 kW and 17-26 kW PowerProtect units, the fuel solenoid is part of the fuel regulator assembly. Disconnect the 2-pin connector (B, Figure 35) from the assembly (C).Connect the positive (+) meter test lead (D) lead to the 2-pin connector (D) and connect the negative (-) meter test lead (E) to ground (F).

      (insert Figure 35)

  3. Measure DC Volts at the fuel solenoid while the engine is cranking. Is the voltage equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Go to step 4.
    • No –Go to step 6.

    NOTICE - There will not be voltage at the pauses between cranks. When activated, a "click" is heard at the fuel solenoid and that indicates that it opened correctly.

  4. Set your Digital Multimeter to read ohms.
  5. Measure the pin-to-pin coil resistance on the fuel solenoid. Is the resistance close to 11 ohms?
    • Yes – Go to step 6.
    • No – Install a new fuel solenoid. Test again.
  6. Remove the pipe plug from the fuel pressure regulator test port and install an analog manometer.
  7. Verify that the fuel supply valves are open.

    NOTICE - Step 8 applies only to Fortress II generator units. If you do not have a Fortress II unit, skip to step 10.

  8. Disconnect the 2-pin connector (A, Figure 36) at the fuel solenoid (B). Connect the jumper wire (C) from the positive battery (+) post (D) to the fuel solenoid.

    (insert Figure 36)

  9. Check the manometer gauge: Is the fuel pressure at 11-14 inches WC (LP) or 3.5-7 inches WC (NG)?
    • Yes – Go to step 10.
    • No – Low fuel pressure. Repair or replace the fuel delivery system. Test again.
    • No - No fuel pressure Install a new fuel solenoid. Test again.
  10. For PowerProtect units, connect the 2-pin connector (Wires 14C and 0D) at the fuel solenoid.
  11. Connect the positive (+) meter test lead (A, Figure 37) to Terminal 5 (Dig O/P C, Wire 14A) (B) on the controller. Connect the negative (-) meter test lead (D) to ground (E).

    (insert Figure 37)

  12. Measure DC volts while cranking. Is the voltage equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Repair or replace Wire 14 between the controller and fuel solenoid. Test again and go to step 13.
    • No – Install a new controller. Test again and go to step
  13. Back probe Pin 11 (Wire 14A) (A, Figure 38) on the relay board with the red meter test lead (B) in and connect the other meter test lead (C) to ground (D). Is the DC voltage equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?

    NOTICE - The relay board on 13 kW units does not have the 3-pin connector shown in the following images.

    • Yes – Go to step 14.
    • No – Repair or replace Wire 14A between the relay board (Pin 11) and the controller. Test again.

    (insert Figure 38)

  14. Back probe Pin 10 (Wire 14B) (A, Figure 39) on the relay board with the red meter test lead (B) and connect the other meter test lead (C) to ground (D). Is the DC voltage equal to or greater than 9.6 VDC?
    • Yes – Yes - Go to Check Fuel Pressure Regulator.
    • No – Repair or replace Wire 14B between the relay board (Pin 10) and the fuel solenoid. Test again.

(insert Figure 39)

  1. Loosen the bolts holding the regulator to the base.
  2. Install a barbed 1/8-inch NPT fitting into one of the two atmospheric pressure ports in the fuel pressure regulator. Attach a 24-inch length of hose to the fitting.
  3. Install an analog manometer to the fuel pressure regulator test port.
  4. Disconnect Wire 14C (A, Figure 40) at the 2-pin connector of the fuel solenoid (B). Connect the jumper wire (C) from the positive battery (+) post (D) to the fuel solenoid.
  5. Cover the open atmospheric pressure port with your index finger and very gently blow into the hose. Does the manometer show a decrease in pressure?
    • Yes – Go to Check Spark.
    • No – Install a new fuel pressure regulator. Test again.

      NOTICE: When the fuel solenoid is energized (open) with battery voltage, the applied pressure allows fuel to pass through the fuel pressure regulator. Do not use compressed air, as the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm is easily ruptured.

(insert Figure 40)

Potential Cause: Clogged Air Filter, Bad Engine Spark Plugs and/or Plug Wires, Engine Valve Adjustment needed

ALARM(S): Fail to Start

  1. Obtain two Ignition Testers (D in Specialty Tools).
  2. Remove spark plug cables from the spark plug terminals.

    NOTICE - Always pull on the boot at the terminal end of the cable. Pulling on the cable can result in damage.

  3. Install the free end of the spark plug cables onto the tester prongs. Install the tester alligator clips onto the good engine grounds.

    WARNING - Be sure there is no fuel or fuel vapors present, which, if spark-ignited, can cause a fire or explosion resulting in death or serious injury.

  4. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine.
  5. Is spark present?
    • Yes – Ignition is functioning properly. Go to step 6.
    • No – Verify the spark tester is properly installed and repeat steps 4-5. If spark is still not present, install a new ignition coil, following instructions in the appropriate engine service manual. Test again.
  6. Press STOP/CONFIG on the controller and remove the 15 amp fuse (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location) or shut off the PMD.
  7. Remove the tester alligator clips from the engine grounds and install on the spark plug terminals.
  8. Install a 15 amp fuse in the controller and press START/ SELECT to start the engine.
  9. Is spark present?
    • Yes – The ignition is operating properly. Go to Check the Crankcase Vacuum.
    • No – Go to step 10.
  10. Fully clean the area around the spark plugs to keep debris out of the combustion chamber. Remove the spark plugs from the cylinder heads with a 5/8-inch spark plug socket, and then continue as follows:
    • Check that the spark plug type is Champion XC92YC or RC12YC. Refer to your generator's operator's manual for the proper spark plug.
    • Check that the spark plug is in good condition.
    • Check that the spark plug gap is 0.020 inches (0.508 mm) for vertical units and 17 and 20 kW Fortress II units or 0.030 inches (0.762 mm) for 17, 18, 20, 22, and 26 kW PowerProtect units.
    • Are all of the above conditions observed?
      • Yes – Go to Check the Crankcase Vacuum.
      • No – Install a new spark plug(s). Test again.

  1. Obtain a digital vacuum gauge.
  2. Remove the dipstick.
  3. Insert the vacuum gauge tube into the dipstick tube.

    NOTICE - The vacuum gauge must fit tightly. On 12-13 kW units, the dipstick tube also serves as the oil fill neck, so wrap the vacuum gauge tube with paper towels as needed to achieve a tight fit.

  4. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine.
  5. Is the vacuum gauge reading -5 to -10 inches WC?
    • Yes – Go to Check and Adjust Valve Clearance.
    • No – See the appropriate Engine Service Manual.

    NOTICE - If necessary, call Briggs & Stratton Technical Support for assistance.

NOTICE - For the best results, check valve clearance when the engine is cold.

  1. Remove the spark plug cables from the spark plug terminals. Always pull on the boot at the terminal end or damage to the cable can occur.
  2. Thoroughly clean the area around spark plugs to keep dirt out of the combustion chamber.
  3. Remove spark plugs from cylinder heads using a 5/8- inch spark plug socket.
  4. Turn the engine crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation until the piston of cylinder #1 is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
  5. To ensure that the tappet is not resting on the compression release ball, insert a TDC tool (or wooden dowl or chopstick) into the spark plug hole and slowly turn the crankshaft in the same direction until the piston has moved 0.25 inches (6.0 mm) down the bore past TDC.
  6. Remove the 4 screws with washers to release the valve cover.
  7. Insert a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and intake valve stem. Verify that the intake valve clearance is 0.004-0.006 inches (0.102-0.152 mm).
  8. If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows:
    • Obtain a Briggs & Stratton Valve Adjustment Set (E in Specialty Tools).
    • Place the socket (13 mm hex) over the locknut.
    • While holding the socket on the locknut, insert the hex (5 mm) or Torx (T-40) bit through the hold to engage the adjuster screw.
    • Rotate the socket counter-clockwise to loosen the locknut and slightly turn the adjuster screw in a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction (to either reduce or increase the valve clearance, respectively).
    • While holding the hex or Torx (T-40) bit on the adjuster screw to prevent rotation, turn the socket in a clockwise direction to tighten the locknut.
    • Remove your tools and use the feeler gauge to check valve clearance. Repeat steps as necessary until the proper valve clearance is obtained.
    • Tighten the locknut to 70 in-lbs (8 Nm). Check the valve clearance one more time to verify that the adjusting screw did not move when the locknut was torqued.
  9. Insert the feeler gauge between the rocker arm and exhaust valve stem. Verify that the exhaust valve clearance is 0.007-0.009 inches (0.178-0.229 mm). If adjustment is necessary, repeat step 8.
  10. For big block engines, start 4 screws with washers to install the valve cover of cylinder #1. For small block engines, start 2 screws with washers.
  11. Alternately tighten valve cover screws to 70 in-lbs (8 Nm) using a crosswise pattern.
  12. Repeat steps 4-11 on cylinder #2.
  13. Install spark plugs into cylinder heads and finger tighten until snug. Tighten spark plugs to 180 in-lbs (20 Nm) using a spark plug socket.
  14. Install spark plug cables onto spark plug terminals.
  15. Press START/SELECT on the controller. Does the engine start?
    • Yes, but the engine does not shut off or the "FAIL TO STOP" alarm is present - Go to step 16.
    • Yes - Go to Check the Voltage.
    • No - Go to Check Fuel Supply Pressure.
  16. Shut off the fuel supply valve, check that the voltage is removed from Wire 14A and Wire 14B from the fuel solenoid, and test for fuel pressure. Is fuel pressure present?
    • Yes - Replace the fuel regulator solenoid assembly. Go back to step 15.
    • No - ? (Not in Repair Manual, need guidance on next steps)

Generator Starts and then Shuts Down

(need introduction)

NOTICE - Whenever "Test again" appears, install the 15 amp fuse (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location), if removed. From MANUAL mode (Engine Off-Ready), press START/SELECT on the controller to check if the engine cranks. If the test fails, remove the 15 amp fuse and proceed to the next step.

If a test passes, follow the linear steps to the appropriate section.

Initial Test: Check Generator Output Voltage

  1. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine. Does the engine have proper voltage?
    • Yes - Go to either Symptom: Generator Runs for ONLY 10 Seconds, or Symptom: Generator Runs for LONGER than 10 Seconds, then Shuts Down.
    • No - Go to Measure Circuit Breaker Load-Side Voltage.

(insert image of Controller with Voltage information)

NOTICE - General images are shown and may not match your unit. Load side voltage testing may be done on the LOAD side of the breaker or a pre-wired terminal block.

  1. Locate the generator circuit breaker and remove the breaker cover plate.
  2. Verify that the generator circuit breaker is in the ON (Closed) position.
  3. Install a 15 amp fuse in the controller, if removed (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  4. Set the Digital Multimeter (A, Figure 41) to read AC volts. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine. Is 240 VAC present at the load side of the circuit breaker or terminal block?
    • Yes - Go to Measure Generator Voltage at the Controller.
    • No - Go to Measure Circuit Breaker Line-Side Voltage.

(insert Figure 41)

  1. With the engine running, back probe the socket terminals with one meter test lead (A, Figure 42) on Pin 29 (Wire 44C) (B) and the other meter test lead (C) on Pin 30 (Wire 11C) (D) and at the back of the controller. Is 240 VAC present?
    • Yes - Install a new controller. Test again.
    • No - Repair or replace Wire 44C (Pin 29) and/or Wire 11C (Pin 30) (Refer to Wiring Diagrams). Test again.

(insert Figure 42)

NOTICE - General images are shown and may not match your unit. Line side voltage testing may be done on the LINE side of the breaker or a pre-wired terminal block.

  1. Locate the generator circuit breaker and remove the breaker cover plate (if not already removed).
  2. Make sure that the generator circuit breaker is in the OFF (Open) position.
  3. Push START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine. With the engine running, back probe the socket terminals with one meter test lead (A, Figure 43) on the L2 contact (B) and the other meter test lead (C) on the L1 contact (D) on the side of the controller. Is there 240 VAC at the line side of the circuit breaker?
    • Yes – Manually cycle the circuit breaker. Test again. If the problem continues, install a new circuit breaker. Test again.
    • No – Go to either Symptom: Generator Runs for ONLY 10 Seconds, or Symptom: Generator Runs for LONGER than 10 Seconds, then Shuts Down.

(insert Figure 43)

Symptom: Generator Runs for ONLY 10 Seconds

(need scenario introduction - where engine runs for only 10 seconds, then shuts down)

 

Potential Cause(s): Undersized fuel line (from source to generator)

ALARM(S): Fail to Start + Under Voltage/ Under Speed, or Low Frequency

Potential Cause(s): AVR has incorrect firmware, after replacing AVR

ALARM(S): AVR Fault, Low Voltage (Warning or Failure)

Potential Cause(s): Generator produces low voltage (70-120 VAC); Generator produces high voltage (>132 VAC per leg, or >240 VAC)

ALARM(S): AVR Fault, Low Voltage (Warning or Failure); Fail to Start + Over Speed/ Frequency, High Voltage Failure

See the instructions above, found in the Measure Circuit Breaker Load-Side Voltage section.

(Use Removal and Installation instructions from the Repair Manual?)

Potential Cause(s): Generator Overspeed or Underspeed

ALARM(S): Fail to Start + Over Speed/ Frequency, High Voltage Failure

See the instructions above, found in the Measure Circuit Breaker Load-Side Voltage section.

See the instructions above, found in the NEED section.

Potential Cause(s): Diode on back of AVR has blown (D12)

ALARM(S): Speed Sensor I/P Lost

(steps)

Symptom: Generator Runs for LONGER than 10 Seconds, then Shuts Down

NOTICE - Whenever "Test again" appears, install the 15 amp fuse (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location), if removed. From MANUAL mode (Engine Off-Ready), press START/SELECT on the controller to check if the engine cranks. If the test fails, remove the 15 amp fuse and proceed to the next step.

If a test passes, follow the linear steps to the appropriate section.

 

Potential Cause(s): No Engine Oil, or Level is too Low; Low Oil Pressure (shorted wire, and/or open switch when running)

ALARM(S): Low Oil Pressure Switch

(Need section for basic checks)

  1. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine. Let 10 seconds go by so the engine can pressurize. Is a low oil pressure condition indicated?
    • Yes - Go to step 2.
    • No - Go to Check for High Engine Temperature.
  2. Is the engine oil level low?
    • Yes - Add oil until the level is at or near the top of the crosshatch pattern on the dipstick. Test again.
    • No - Go to Check Low Oil Pressure Switch for Short to Ground.

NOTICE - The normally closed contacts of the switch are held open by engine oil pressure when the engine is running. If oil pressure drops below 7-10 psi, the contacts close to complete a circuit to ground on Wire 85, and the engine shuts down.

  1. Press START/SELECT on the controller.
  2. Remove the 15 amp fuse from the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location) or turn off the PMD.
  3. Disconnect Wire 85 from the Low Oil Pressure switch.
  4. Set the Digital Multimeter (A, Figure 60) to read continuity. Measure for short to ground by connecting one meter test lead (B) to Wire 85 (C) and the engine block and connecting the other meter test lead (D) to ground (E). Is short to ground present?
    • Yes - Repair or replace wiring. Test again.
    • No - Go to Check Low Oil Pressure Switch for Continuity.

(insert Figure 60)

  1. Disconnect Wire 85 from the Low Oil Pressure switch if installed.
  2. Install the 15 amp fuse in the controller if removed (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  3. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine and allow 10 seconds to elapse for the engine to pressurize.
  4. Set the Digital Multimeter (A, Figure 61) to read continuity. Check continuity to ground at the switch spade contact by connecting one meter test lead (B) to the engine block (C) and the other meter test lead (D) to ground (E). Is continuity to ground present?

    NOTICE - The switch may be tested using a hand or vacuum pump (Briggs & Stratton part number: 19493) or equivalent, applying either vacuum or pressure.

    • Yes - The switch contacts are closed. Go to Check Engine Oil Pressure.
    • No - The switch contacts are open. Install a new controller. Test again.

(insert Figure 61)

  1. Disconnect Wire 85 (A, Figure 62) from the Low Oil Pressure switch (B).
  2. Remove the Low Oil Pressure switch and install a suitable oil pressure gauge.
  3. Install the 15 amp fuse in the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  4. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine.
    • Yes - Install a new Low Oil Pressure switch. Test again.
    • No - See the service manual for your engine.

NOTICE - If necessary, call Briggs & Stratton Technical Support for assistance.

(insert Figure 62)

Potential Cause(s): Engine Oil Level is too High; High Engine Temperature Switch (component) = Short to Ground

ALARM(S): High Engine Temperature Switch

  1. Install a 15 amp fuse in the controller, if removed (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  2. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine. Let the engine run for 5 minutes. Is a high engine temperature condition indicated?
    • Yes - Go to step 3.
    • No - Perform Final Checks.
  3. Check for these most common causes of high engine temperature: low engine oil level, obstructed air inlet, obstructed exhaust outlet, debris in the engine compartment, deteriorated foam seals, or the roof or side panels are not installed. Are any of these conditions observed?
    • Yes - Correct as necessary. Test again.
    • No - Go to Check High Engine Temperature Switch for Short to Ground.

NOTICE - The switch contacts are normally open. If the engine temperature goes above 300°F, +/- 7°F (149°C, +/- 4°C), the contacts close to complete a circuit to ground on Wire 95 and the engine will shut down.

  1. Press STOP/CONFIG on the controller.
  2. Remove the 15 amp fuse from the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location) or turn off the PMD.
  3. Disconnect Wire 95 from the High Engine Temperature switch.
  4. Set the Digital Multimeter (A, Figure 63) to read continuity. Measure for short to ground by connecting one meter test lead (B) to Wire 95 and the engine block (C) and the other meter test lead (D) to ground (E). Is short to ground present on Wire 95?
    • Yes - Repair or replace the wiring. Test again.
    • No - Go to Check High Engine Temperature Switch for Continuity.

(insert Figure 63)

  1. Connect Wire 95 to the High Engine Temperature switch.
  2. Install a 15 amp fuse in the controller (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  3. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine.
  4. Set the Digital Multimeter (A, Figure 64) to read continuity. With the engine cold or below normal operating temperature, check for continuity between terminals of the High Engine Temperature switch by connecting one meter test lead (B) to one prong of the switch (C) and the other meter test lead (D) to the other prong of the switch (E). Is continuity present?
    • Yes - Install a new High Engine Temperature switch. Test again.
    • No - Install a new controller. Test again.

    (insert Figure 64)

  5. Go to Generator Runs Rough.

Potential Cause(s): Air intake is blocked/ obstructed; Engine foam seal is deteriorated and recirculating warm engine air

ALARM(S): High Engine Temperature Switch

Observe engine foam seal, replace.

Potential Cause(s): blank

ALARM(S): Over Current/ Load, or Unbalanced Load

Generator Runs Rough

Engine Starts, Runs Poorly (cuts out, misses, hesitates and/or stumbles)

NOTICE - Whenever "Test again" appears, install the 15 amp fuse (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location), if removed. From MANUAL mode (Engine Off-Ready), press START/SELECT on the controller to check if the engine cranks. If the test fails, remove the 15 amp fuse and proceed to the next step.

If a test passes, follow the linear steps to the appropriate section.

 

Voltage Troubleshooting

(text - Confirm breaker voltage to rule out Alternator)

 

Potential Cause(s):

Fuel Troubleshooting

(see fuel section)

 

Potential Cause: Incorrect fuel conversion

Text

Engine Troubleshooting

Air Filter, Spark Plugs, Valve Adjustment

 

Potential Cause: Faulty spark plugs/ wiring

  1. Get two Ignition Testers (D in Specialty Tools).
  2. Remove the spark plug cables from the spark plug terminals.

    NOTICE - Pull on the boot at the terminal end of the cable. Do not pull on the cable, as it can cause damage.

  3. Install the free end of the spark plug cables (A, Figure 65) onto the inline tester prongs (B). Install the tester alligator clips onto the spark plug terminals (C).

    WARNING - Make sure there is no fuel or fuel vapors present, which, if spark ignited, can cause a fire or explosion resulting in death or serious injury.

  4. Get a Digital Tachometer and Hour Meter (B in Specialty Tools) (D, Figure 65) and install it on one side of the engine as follows:
    • Insert solder lug of the white wire (E) under the engine or the frame bolt (F) for a suitable ground connection.
    • Tightly coil the red wire (G) over an insulated section of the spark plug cable (H) three to four times.

    NOTICE - Keep wires away from hot or moving engine parts.

  5. Get a screwdriver with an insulated handle (J, Figure 65) and a jumper wire with an alligator clip on both ends (K).
  6. On the side of the engine opposite the tachometer, attach a jumper wire (K, Figure 65) to the shank of the screwdriver (J) and to the engine lifting eye (L) or another suitable ground.
  7. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine.
  8. Check the tachometer and write down the engine RPM with both cylinders functioning.
  9. Touch the offset prong on the ignition tester with the end of the screwdriver to the ground out cylinder (A, Figure 65).
  10. Check the tachometer and write down the engine RPM with only one cylinder functioning.
  11. Press STOP/CONFIG on the controller.
  12. Remove the tachometer (D, Figure 65) and the jumper wire (K).
  13. Repeat steps 4-12 on the second cylinder.

    (insert Figure 65)

  14. Compare the test results. After an initial drop, did each cylinder get back up to 3600 RPM?

    NOTICE - There should not be more than a 75-RPM difference between each cylinder.

    • Yes - The cylinders are doing an equivalent amount of work. The engine function is satisfactory.
    • No - The cylinder with the low RPM is not doing what it should. See the appropriate Engine Service Manual.

NOTICE - If necessary, call Briggs & Stratton Technical Support for assistance.

  1. Obtain a digital vacuum gauge.
  2. Remove the dipstick.
  3. Insert the vacuum gauge tube into the dipstick tube.

    NOTICE - The vacuum gauge tube must fit tightly. On 12-13 kW units, the dipstick tube is also the oil fill neck, so wrap the vacuum gauge tube with paper towels as needed to achieve a tight fit.

  4. Activate the vacuum gauge.
  5. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine.
  6. Is the vacuum gauge showing -5 to -10 inches WC?
    • Yes - Perform Final Checks.
    • No - See the service manual for your engine.

NOTICE - If necessary, call Briggs & Stratton Technical Support for assistance.

Potential Cause(s): Clogged engine air filter

Generator Does Not Produce Voltage

(need introduction)

NOTICE - Whenever "Test again" appears, install the 15 amp fuse (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location), if removed. From MANUAL mode (Engine Off-Ready), press START/SELECT on the controller to check if the engine cranks. If the test fails, remove the 15 amp fuse and proceed to the next step.

If a test passes, follow the linear steps to the appropriate section.

 

Symptom: Generator Running But No Voltage

Potential Cause(s): CANBUS Wire issue between AVR and GC-1030 Controller, No/ Low Generator Output Voltage (at Circuit Breaker and/or Controller), Wire harness problem

ALARM(S): AVR Fault, Low Voltage (Warning or Failure)

NOTICE - General images are shown and may not match your unit. Load side voltage testing may be done on the LOAD side of the breaker or a pre-wired terminal block.

  1. Locate the generator circuit breaker and remove the breaker cover plate.
  2. Verify that the generator circuit breaker is in the ON (Closed) position.
  3. Install a 15 amp fuse in the controller, if removed (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  4. Set the Digital Multimeter (A, Figure 41) to read AC volts. Press START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine. Is 240 VAC present at the load side of the circuit breaker or terminal block?
    • Yes - Go to Measure Generator Voltage at the Controller.
    • No - Go to Measure Circuit Breaker Line-Side Voltage.

(insert Figure 41)

  1. With the engine running, back probe the socket terminals with one meter test lead (A, Figure 42) on Pin 29 (Wire 44C) (B) and the other meter test lead (C) on Pin 30 (Wire 11C) (D) and at the back of the controller. Is 240 VAC present?
    • Yes - Install a new controller. Test again.
    • No - Repair or replace Wire 44C (Pin 29) and/or Wire 11C (Pin 30) (Refer to Wiring Diagrams). Test again.

(insert Figure 42)

NOTICE - General images are shown and may not match your unit. Line side voltage testing may be done on the LINE side of the breaker or a pre-wired terminal block.

  1. Locate the generator circuit breaker and remove the breaker cover plate (if not already removed).
  2. Make sure that the generator circuit breaker is in the OFF (Open) position.
  3. Push START/SELECT on the controller to start the engine. With the engine running, back probe the socket terminals with one meter test lead (A, Figure 43) on the L2 contact (B) and the other meter test lead (C) on the L1 contact (D) on the side of the controller. Is there 240 VAC at the line side of circuit breaker?
    • Yes - Manually cycle the circuit breaker. Test again. If the problem continues, install a new circuit breaker. Test again.
    • No - Go to Test 16: Check the Alternator Rotor Winding Resistance.

(insert Figure 43)

Potential Cause(s): (Need)

ALARM(S): Fail to Start Alarm + Under Voltage/ Speed, or Low Frequency

  1. Press STOP/CONFIG on the controller and remove the 15 amp fuse (see your generator's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location).
  2. Remove fuses from the transfer switch (see your transfer switch's installation and operator's manual for the fuse location)
  3. Disconnect Wire 11 and Wire 44 from the circuit breaker.
  4. Disconnect Wire 22 from the neutral lug.
  5. Disconnect all wires from the AVR.
  6. Go to Test Stator Power Windings.